Change: Inevitable, and Sometimes Welcome

This is our second time in Alaska.  The first time was during the Covid 19 pandemic in 2021.  Because of health concerns, many safeguards had been put in place:  Facemasks in many locations, no shore stops while transiting Canada, many stores closed until further notice.  We didn’t mind so much, because we actually enjoy isolating, especially on our boat.  We had plenty of the essentials:  food, diesel fuel for the engine and the heater, good books and of course, each other.  The scenery doesn’t care if there’s a pandemic.  It is constant in its beauty year after year.  So is the abundant wildlife.  We had a great trip!

This year, there are some differences.  People are glad to be out again, and they are hungry for nature and adventure just like we are.  We have noticed many more pleasure boats this year, both large and small.  And the cruise ships!  There are many.  They don’t bother us, but it is kind of shocking to see a floating hotel in pristine, isolated places, where usually you feel like you’re alone.  We don’t begrudge people their time on the water.  It’s a wonderful way to travel and much better than watching a travelogue on TV.  It’s also nice to see the stores open, and the local people who make a living from tourism back in business.

In Ketchikan we were amazed to see five cruise ships at the docks, where two years ago there were none. It certainly makes for a hopping place, compared to last time. We had quite a surprise one morning while sleeping in our berth at the downtown dock. We were awakened to the sound of water, which isn’t unusual, but it seemed the volume was TURNED WAY UP. The water sounded like it was rushing through a hole in the boat’s hull. We both leaped out of bed, instantly alert and searching. Down went Mike into the engine room. I began looking into dark corners and feeling for unseen leaks. The sound of water lapping is usually so soothing, but this was terrifying, because we thought we might be experiencing a sinking event! Eventually, after finding nothing amiss on Voyager, we turned our eyes outward to the harbor. A huge cruise ship was docking, using its bow and stern thrusters to bring it slowly to its spot on the dock. Now, Voyager has a bow thruster, which we use sparingly when we need to bring the bow left or right in a tight docking situation. Our little thruster doesn’t compare to the powerful thrusters on the cruise ship, though. These thrusters were moving water through the entire marina. The movement couldn’t be seen on the surface, but you could hear it moving under the boat. It sure gave us our thrill for the day!

It may be hard to believe, but not every day is pleasurable on the boat. It usually has more to do with a person’s attitude than the place or the events or the weather. One morning I woke up and was simply homesick. I was missing my kids and grandkids. I was missing the flowers in my garden and the friends in my neighborhood. I was working myself into a pretty good funk as we were motoring along, when suddenly I was distracted by the sight of torpedoes coming through the water toward our boat! Laying aside my somber mood for just a moment, I stepped out on deck to discover that the torpedoes were dolphins racing to our boat to play in the bow wave. They swam amazingly fast, crisscrossing each other in front of the boat, and sometimes shooting out different directions like fireworks. We were clapping and shouting “woo-hoo! You’re beautiful!” They seemed to enjoy our praise and kept at it for a few minutes, until by some unseen signal, they all took off in unison to parts unknown. I looked around for my funk and just couldn’t find it.

Later on, as I was driving the boat so that Mike could throw a fishing line in the water, we could hear the sound of whales breathing as they swam around our fishing area. We love that sound. The slow, measured whoosh of air from these huge but graceful mammals just instills peacefulness. That is until someone yells, “Fish on!” Two halibut and two rockfish later, we headed back to our anchorage to join friends who had prepared dessert aboard their boat. After some great conversation we called it an evening, and came back to Voyager to finish cleaning up the fishing equipment. I didn’t even bother to look for my funk. I do still miss my loved ones, but I’ve had a change of attitude. Change can be good.

-beth